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TUTORIAL: Dyeing for a color. Goto page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
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powder_pig
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 1:26 am    Post subject: TUTORIAL: Dyeing for a color. Reply with quote

I am into applique in a big way. The designs I applique sometimes can't be made out of standard colors or I might just need a half yard of brown and don't want to wait for it or I can't find the color.

I dye it.






It doesn't take long and it isn't hard to do. It's just one of those things that you won't do if you don't know how. Here's how.

The dye.

I use "I DYE POLY" dyes. I get them with a 40% off coupon from Joanns and they run a couple of bucks a color.

There are two packets in the package. The dye in a dissolve-able envelope and a packet of a liquid that makes the color brighter.



Add about three gallons of water in an enamel pot and heat it on the stove top until it is simmering...not boiling. It needs to be hot but not boiling.

Add the dye packet (I cut the packs of color dye open and empty the contents into the water because I think the gelatin clings to the fabric and makes a mess) and, along with the dye, tear open and add the color intensifier.



I used red and a bit of green to get a nice brown. I use black for a number of grays and just dyed up some cranberry.

In this demonstration I wanted a little brown ...a 2' square is all I needed.

I found a scrap of white big enough for what I needed.



Take your fabric, might be 2 or 3 sq. yards or just a scrap like I have, and wet it with warm water in the sink.



When your dye is steaming hot but not quite boiling drop the fabric in the dye mixture and immerse it until it stays under. Timing is kind of critical because if you need a light color you don't want it in the dye long.



NOTE: I dye the really intense color first, then If I want a lighter color or two, I dump half out and add more water to dilute the solution and do the lighter color. Sometimes I will do this a couple of times to really get light colors.

When the fabric is about what you want, take it out of the dye and rinse it in the sink under cold or tepid water until the water runs clear.



Then, with an iron, iron the fabric until it is dry. I use a setting just below the "steam" setting, 3 on my iron. The ironing steams the fabric dry and sets the dye.



That's really all there is to it.

This is the piece ready for my use.



After I have finished I dump the used dye in a plastic storage container for later use.



The whole process takes less than an hour, start to finish.

Wash your enamel container (don't use aluminum) for next time. Use a bleach cleaner like Comet to clean up. Thanksgiving we had some interesting mashed potatoes because I forgot to really scrub the container. Embarassed
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Last edited by powder_pig on Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:29 pm; edited 2 times in total
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TBHinPhilly
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ron, thanks for the nice pictoral tutorial. Very Happy

A couple of questions. Are you using standard coated white Ripstop? Or are using the completely untreated fabric?

Also, how colorfast is the finished product? Will it run into other colors if it gets wet? And does it fade with time?
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OldGoat



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice tutorial Pig. Thanx for posting Smile
I'm still thinking that one of those deep fry propane turkey fryers would make a good dyeing pot.
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powder_pig
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TBHinPhilly wrote:
Very Happy
A couple of questions. Are you using standard coated white? Or are using the completely untreated fabric?


I am using standard coated Texlon Ripstop. If you let the water get to the boiling point it weakens the fabric. If that happens let it set for a 1/2 hour and cool.

I haven't done any scientific tests on the colorfastness (if that's a word) but none of the dyed pieces I have in kites have faded or sun bleached in two years. No, it will NOT run . Once it is rinsed after dyeing it is done. Cool

I suppose if every time I flew a kite I brought it home and threw it in the washing machine it would wash out some of the color but I don't do that so... Confused

On the other hand, if you fly a commercial kite fabric in the sun for ten years it will fade.
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Last edited by powder_pig on Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kiteguy
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 3:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, PP. This looks like it could solve a lot of problems for a lot of people. I have been looking for I Dye Poly, but can find none in any of the stores around here. Think I will go to the internet and see what I can find.

From your pictures, it looks like it is a very messy process. I have used Rit dye with limited success. It is messy, or at least I am when using it. Embarassed

Thanks bunches for sharing. Applause
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powder_pig
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kiteguy wrote:

From your pictures, it looks like it is a very messy process.
Thanks bunches for sharing. Applause


It can be messy...I have an extra stove in the garage where I do all my dyeing
and the laundry room is right there. It's not all that messy if you take precautions. I really don't have to worry much about it so I tend to be a little messier than if I were doing it in the kitchen, for instance. I find if I clean up right away I solve all of the mess that accumulates.

It's an easy and a quick way to dye that small piece that I wish I had. No waiting...no shipping charges...you see where this is going. Laughing
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Wayne Tunheim



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the pics and instructions. This is much easier that i thought.
This is on my dream skills to have.
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Gill Bloom



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great - another kitemaker to spread the word and show how easy it is to dye Ripstop
Some of my dyed kites are getting on towards 30 years old, and there is very little fade, and the dyed material has held up as well as the normal stuff.
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BANSHEE
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering if you did this in your kitchen. I mentioned doing it here at home and Kathy just looked at me and said "don't even think of it". NOw to head to rummage o ramma and find a enamel pot and a heavy duty hot plate.
Good tutorial. For now I'll have to stick to RIT dye.
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Gill Bloom



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BANSHEE wrote:
I was wondering if you did this in your kitchen. I mentioned doing it here at home and Kathy just looked at me and said "don't even think of it". NOw to head to rummage o ramma and find a enamel pot and a heavy duty hot plate.
Good tutorial. For now I'll have to stick to RIT dye.


I always dye my Ripstop at the kitchen sink and cooker (better heat control or maybe I just know my cooker!) - just have to be careful of spills.....


Last edited by Gill Bloom on Fri Jan 07, 2011 12:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Grant L
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BANSHEE wrote:
I was wondering if you did this in your kitchen. I mentioned doing it here at home and Kathy just looked at me and said "don't even think of it". NOw to head to rummage o ramma and find a enamel pot and a heavy duty hot plate.
Good tutorial. For now I'll have to stick to RIT dye.


I was thinking of trying it with my Coleman camp stove. Can do it in the garage or outside and not worry about running an extension chord. Very Happy Thanks PP for the tutorial. Looks much simpler than I would have thought.
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mototrev
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the dying doesn't work out it will always make a good beer brewing pot Banshee! Wink


In the shed...portable gas stove....That's what was used in the master class I took. Wink
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planish



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 12:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Dyeing for a color. Reply with quote

powder_pig wrote:


I must be easily distracted. I was thinking how nice the stick looked.
How about a set of salad tongs, or is the dye toxic? Whistle
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Gill Bloom



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm afraid after awhile the colours tend to go to black - this wooden spoon is about 10 years old,

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nckiter



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I was thinking of trying it with my Coleman camp stove.

A propane Coleman camp stove works great and gas will heat up quicker that most electric element.! Large stainless steel pots can be bought new at places like Big Lots, Ollies, K-Mart and Wal-Mart for $10-12 for 24 qt. sizes. A cooking thermometer is helpful to keep the temps right.
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powder_pig
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BANSHEE wrote:
I was wondering if you did this in your kitchen. I mentioned doing it here at home and Kathy just looked at me and said "don't even think of it". NOw to head to rummage o ramma and find a enamel pot and a heavy duty hot plate.
Good tutorial. For now I'll have to stick to RIT dye.


Heat the water and get the dye ready in the kitchen. Carry the pot outside to dye the fabric and wash it with the garden hose until it runs clear then bring it inside and finish in the sink. All the mess will be outside. Very Happy
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reynolds5520
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice write up Ron! So, how come you say we shouldn't use aluminum for the kettle?



mototrev wrote:
If the dying doesn't work out it will always make a good beer brewing pot Banshee! Wink


Yeah, I could see my home brewing gear fitting well in this process. I might just have to use a different kettle though - off color mashed potatoes are bad enough, I sure don't need a blue cider or ale.


.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never drink anything with a blue head.
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powder_pig
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

reynolds5520 wrote:
Nice write up Ron! So, how come you say we shouldn't use aluminum for the kettle?


I'm actually not sure, I haven't tried it but in all the literature for the dyes it recommends not to use aluminum. I don't know if there is some kind of a chemical reaction or if the dyes stain the metal. Just passing on a warning I picked up someplace. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So, how come you say we shouldn't use aluminum for the kettle?

Without getting into the chemical make ups of metals and dyes (which I am certainly not qualified to do d'oh! ) lets just say that stainless steel and enamel ware are considered to be chemically inert during the dye process. Aluminum and also copper pots can release "mineral salts" to the dye solution that may change the results (color and color fastness) from what you were expecting.
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