B.   Stick to Stick, Fittings or Methods:


1.        Machined Tees

2.        Machined Pushers

3.        Bobby Two Hole

4.        Tinkertoys


1.        Ferrels

2.        Spar Clamp & Rivet, as used on sticks

3.        Dihedrals

4.        Eye Fittings

5.        O-Rings - rubber & vinyl

6.        Vinyl Tubing / Flexible Ferrels

7.        Whisker Fittings - APA, Import, Clip, Jaco, Goodwind

8.        Leading Edge - APA reg. & micro, FSD, Goodwind

9.        Do-Hickey

10.     Soft Framing Cylinders / Live Body




To purchase any of these fittings, Go Here >>>


1. Machined Tee’s:

Machined ABS part used for joining sticks 90 degrees apart. Most common use was for center tee   fitting in stunt kites. This application requires a ferrel in the tee, matched for the size of the lower spreaders; and, a hole at 90 degrees, matched for the size of the vertical, spine stick; therefore, the vertical hole is perpendicular to the horizontal hole.


Lately though, more and more people are using the fitting without the ferrel, that is to say with a stick going thru the fitting in both directions. This actually is a beefier version of the Bobby Two Hole fitting, without Bobby’s adjust screw or set screw. Bobby’s fitting will be explained as item  #3 below. The disadvantage of this use is the fitting could get lost on disassembly.

PIC: Tee with ferrel on sticks 2100 & .125


2. Machined Pushers:

This fitting probably should be the one called tee, but the name tee was already in use for the above fitting, therefore I came up with Pusher. The fitting is very similar to the tee except the vertical stick is perpendicular to the horizontal hole; instead of the tee’s vertical hole is perpendicular to the horizontal hole. This will get clearer in the photos.


Commonly used in box kites for attaching cross sticks to the longerons without going thru the sail. I used them on the Grand-son,  fore & aft, to join the vertical stick to the bottom longeron.


Do not forget to specify both stick sizes when ordering this fitting, so I know what size holes to drill in the part.

PIC: Shop with two sticks and GS of W


3. Bobby Two Hole:

As mentioned, similar in function to item #1, except much more sophisticated, as is anything Bobby Stanfield does. These petite fittings when used in conjunction with the Bobby One Hole, are so, so neat for cellular stuff.  The fitting  holds together 2 sticks perpendicular to each other.  The set screw on one side goes on the stick that stays in the kite on disassembly; and, the nylon adjust screw goes on the stick that gets removed on disassembly. Obviously that means that the fitting remains in the correct place on the correct stick in the bag; and, you do not lose the fitting.  Ah, Bobby fittings, things of beauty. By the way, I do have his permission to make ‘em.

PIC: Shop sample


4. Tinkertoys:

ABS or UHMW discs with holes for sticks around the outside edge. All kinds of neat uses. Since    the holes are drilled using an index head on a drill press with a mill table, it is possible to drill  holes at any number of degrees, in increments of one degree. That means that, yes I can do 22  degrees or 23 degrees; but, I cannot do 22.5 degrees. The diameter of the TT can vary from 3/4” up to 2 3/4” in UHMW; and, from 3/4” up to 2” in ABS. The diameter of the sticks you are using  and the number of sticks in the circle, and the depth of the stick holes, control the diameter of the      TT. See matrix for a few sample sizes.

PIC: Various sizes with sticks coming out of the fittings





1. Ferrels:

Here is the place to discuss the meaning and spelling of the word ferrel, or more commonly known as ferrule: a short bushing. It started long  ago at the beginning of  Kite Studio, the kid,        that’s Steven, found somewhere in a obscure dictionary that an alternate spelling for ferrule was       indeed  ferrel; and, since Ferrel is the same as ferrel, we decided it would induce a very nice controversy, thereby bringing more attention to Kite Studio. A funny thing happened, I do believe that in all this time no more than THREE people even cared to contest the spelling; therefore history has been made and we have successfully convinced the world that in fact a kite ferrule is really a ferrel, how about that...


So, a ferrel is a short bushing. There are internal or external ferrels. Never use a internal ferrel on linear graphite sticks except for plugs to strengthen the ends, because of the way the sticks are made they will self-destruct. Ferrels are used to join two sticks together, usually 3” long and only glued 1 1/2” into one stick; thereby allowing the other stick to be removed on disassembly. The original ferrels are 3” pieces of epoxy tube. If you check the stick matrix, you will find that the ID’s and OD’s mix & match with epoxy tubes and linear graphite sticks.


If you want to increase the strength of a external ferrel you thread wrap the ferrel after it’s glued on, likewise if you are using an internal ferrel you thread wrap the outside of the stick a couple of  inches both sides of center of the ferrel. Of course the thread wrap is made with nylon thread  (NOT bonded, cause bonded means silicone and that is not compatible with the final finish); then it’s coated with color preserver; and then it’s covered with a two part finishing epoxy TWS25.  Use only one color of thread if your only interest is strength; but, if you want to wow the judges,  you use multiple colors and create fancy designs when you wrap the thread. Hopefully soon we  will have a tech paper on thread wrapping by Glen Haynes, the guy who started this craze.


The next step up in strength is metal, usually aluminum. Most aluminum ferrels are available in stock sizes. For the sizes we can’t buy off the shelf I make from either solid or tube stock aluminum. See ferrel matrix for common sizes. (Note to Steven - combine epoxy and multiple alum. to one matrix) If by some chance the size you need is not on the list. Ask! I can create almost anything.


In addition, the micro carbon / graphite craze has created the need for micro ferrels, made of brass, various lengths from 3/4” to 1 1/2”, with a myriad of uses not only on kites, but model sailboats and airplanes.



Since I’m running at the mouth, this is a good time to interject a glue lesson.


STEP ONE: Prepare the surface. Most important step. Clean the part where the glue goes. If it’s external use fine sandpaper. If it’s internal, use a internal rod cleaning brush (TOOL61) and rubbing alcohol, clean the dust and mandrel release agent out of the inside of the stick. Let it dry.  Now you can apply the glue. You have 2 choices: CA or super glue; or, 2 part epoxy.


First, CA or super glue, available in 3 thickness’. Water thin GLU05, medium GLU06, and thick  GLU07. The correct thickness to use is dependent on the fit. Tight fit, use thin glue. Loose fit,  use thick gap filling glue. And finally, after you apply the glue, give the joint a spray with Insta-set ACC10, a cure accelerator which instantly holds the joint, allowing the rest of the glue to cure  without movement giving you the strongest joint possible with CA glue.


Second, Epoxy, 5 minute TWS70 or 30 minute TWS12. Super strong, 2 ton, 30 minute stuff,  takes 30 minutes to cure. Since I’m building kites, not rockets, the only time I use it is for tow  points or extremely high stress points. The rest of the time, which is most of the time, I use the 5  minute stuff which is my glue of choice. The stuff is a little stinky while its wet, but you get used to it. Using a spatula or wood popsicle stick and a piece of oaktag, squeeze out equal parts of A & B, mix well, you now have 5 minutes till hard. Reason most people do not like it , it’s messy.      Here is the secret. You need a bottle of rubbing alcohol from the drugstore, and paper towels.  


When the glue is wet, it comes off with a paper towel soaked in alcohol. More info, soon to be available, a Tech Paper on glue.

PIC: Some ferrels, epoxy Al external, brass etc.


2.   Spar Clamp & Rivet, as used on sticks:

Exact same parts as used on sails except you use two clamps and one rivet to hold together 2  sticks at any angle you like. Vinyl tires can be glued on to the sticks to provide stops. Bobby  Stanfield especially likes this method for his various tri-d-box kites. See previous sail section for  the method of installing the rivet.

PIC: Shop samples


3.   Dihedrals:

Four stock sizes, color coded. See matrix for which linear or wood stick fits in each size. The stock ones have a fixed dihedral angle of about 30 to 32 degrees. This means if you center the  dihedral, as in an eddy or diamond kite, you get a 15 to 16 degree angle on both sides. See Detail   “C”. Another use for dihedrals would be on the wings of a tri-d-box for a 30 degree wing uplift.         See Detail “C”.

PIC: Shop samples


4.   Eye Fittings, spar to line:

The fitting slides over the stick, glue in place, an instant clean way to attach a line to a stick.  Similar to the eye fittings that are thread wrapped to fishing poles; however, these guys do NOT have to be thread wrapped. Use to attach a bridel to a stick; or, build a truss system to support a  longeron. i.e. Bobby’s Stone Mountain Kite. See Detail “D”.

PIC: Shop samples


5.   O-Rings - rubber & vinyl:

A zillion rubber sizes available at hardware or plumbing shops. I carry 5 or 6 sizes in my shop, ask for. The vinyl ones, very simply, you cut a thin tire from a piece of vinyl tubing.


In both cases, you slide 2 cross sticks into the ring and twist. Effectively it ties the two sticks  together at the center, thereby tremendously strengthening the cross sticks, by stopping the bow.  Advantage - they are cheap. Disadvantage - you lose them on disassembly.   PIC: Shop samples


6.   Vinyl Tubing / Flexible Ferrels:

Sort of self explanatory. Cut a 3” piece of vinyl tubing, slide a stick in both ends and presto, a  flexible ferrel. Another use, cut a vee in the center of the ferrel, slide one stick in one end & thru    the vee, the other stick in the other end & presto, you have a tee connector. Advantage - cheap.  Disadvantage - wear out quickly and they are heavy. See matrix for different sizes of clear and      black and colored vinyl tubing available by the foot.

PIC: Shop samples using  black and clear and multi colored.


7.   Whisker Fittings:

                There are 5 different stock fittings available relating to whiskers.

                                A.   APA - whisker to spreader - PIC

                                B.   Import whisker to spreader - PIC

                                C.   Whisker Clip to spreader - PIC

                                D.   Goodwind whisker to spreader - PIC

                                E.   Jaco whisker to sail fitting - PIC

                See individual matrix for each fitting sizes that are available.


8.   Leading Edge Connectors:

                There are 4 different stock fittings available relating to leading edge connectors.

                                A.   APA leading edge connector - PIC

                                B.   APA micro leading edge connector - PIC

                                C.   FSD leading edge connector - PIC

                                D.   Goodwind leading edge connector - PIC


APA’s have a pre-formed angle but are slightly flexible, a super fitting. The FSD are not pre-formed but very flexible for solid fiberglass, micro graphite, and linear graphite sticks. Goodwind    is similar to FSD with limited availability for linear graphite sticks. See matrix for sizes available.


9.   Do-Hickey:

Strange fitting, we did not name them, and we will let you figure out what to do with them. They  are shaped like the letter “C” and they clip on to a spar. One use is as a classy stopper.

PIC: Shop sample


10.  Soft Framing Cylinders

This high density foam is really neat light weight stuff, easily cut or sanded to whatever shape you like. The availability is limited, but we do have some sizes and colors available. See matrix.   PIC: Shop samples and Tulsa Points soft cylinders on horizontal color sticks.



Also took pics on disc of lots of limited availability stock fittings for photo ID in sale capacity